12.9.13

Queen of My Dream (in other words a post on fashion week)

For whatever reason, this is the first season in fashion in a quite some time that I've actually spent the vast majority of my free time watching fashion week live streams. Part of this could be attributed to boredom, my school starts a week later than usual this year so I've had a lot of time to kill. What better way to waste time than spend hours watching 6 foot tall women walk across a stage in clothing! The other half of my involvement in this season is my rekindled interest in fashion. I went almost an entire year disliking fashion but loving style. Fashion after all is austerity at its finest and as a feminist I felt I had better things to do with my life than think about rich people buying 3000 dollar handbags. On the other hand style is personal and can only be defined by the individual. Style is really what you make of it and being on an age typical Thoreau kick I felt I was kind of above the rules and constructs of the fashion industry (which is kind of ironic and paradoxical but I'm not going to try to confuse myself too much) After a summer of self discovery I began to realize again how important fashion is. More importantly, how important the future of fashion is.

During the course of this fashion week I've realized how unbelievably bored I am by "adventures in personal branding"  like that of Alexander Wang (more on that later) or seeing yet another way to modernize the suit for the "everyday woman". I guess in general, the old class of designers (even though some would like to argue that Wang is the "future" of fashion and is still a newcomer).  What is exciting about fashion lately is watching new designers, in their nascent stages of discovery, their "still figuring it out stage". That to me is fashion.

 This season I feel has been half and half. Usually, there are a handful of collections that get me excited about fashion. The ones that make me stay up all night writing in my journal (read: comme des garcons ss12. the review by i-D is pasted on my bedroom wall). While I've yet to find those collections, I definitely have seen some great things.

Eckhaus Latta

 


 Recently, Eckhaus Latta has become one of my favorite design teams. Their designs are futuristic but not in the cop out sort of way by dressing in all white and playing heavy electronic music. Eckhaus Latta instead presents more of dystopian world than the pristine white future our imaginations often think of. The clothes are soft but not in a bohemian way.

Zero and Maria Cornejo 
 
This collection is what Rodarte should have been this season: unbelievable ethereal and structurally sound.Usually I detest the idea of "reinventing" the suit because to be honest suits will never be fun, ever. However, Cornejo somehow or another managed to take my least two favorite things: camel color and baggy crotches and made it beautiful. Cornejo managed to also mix in photorealism a metallics in the form of flawless jumpsuits. On top of all of this I'm on a major jumpsuit kick witch Cornejo is famous for. 

Thom Browne
 


Thom Browne this season was a complete standout. It was the warped reality of anything else that ever dreamed of existing at new york fashion week. When I think of this collection I think of psychosis , the swift descent into an alien universe in which you no longer control your own thoughts. It is also easy to make the connection that perhaps the all white color scheme acts as a tribute to an asylum. I am also reminded of Gareth Pugh and McQueen, fellow manics and fellow craftsmen. Although Browne's designs are not nearly as masterful as those by McQueen they definitely give you hope for the future. The Elizabethan silhouettes juxtaposed by crippled cyber punks and 40s housewives are pure genius. This collection is one of the reasons I love fashion.

Proenza Schouler
 


Proenza Schouler also helped me restore my faith in fashion. The Proenza boys are no strangers to ingenuity and this season was no exception. This collection employs a sort of sleekness in each garment. The suits are fitted perfectly to the body and the skirts are streamline. At the same time, I'm feeling a bit of an art deco vibe with how the blazers and carpet coat thing turned out. Also, can we please talk about the jewelry going on? Those copper pieces are to die for.
Marchesa

Marchesa this season was totally on point as far as looking ethereal and dreamy. It kind of reminds me of what happened at Imitation of Christ a couple of seasons ago and what was consistently happening at Rodarte until Laura and Kate fell deep into a shit cave. These dresses are completely over the top and that is what makes them so fantastic. You might think you have enough giant silk flowers on a dress but your really wrong. Marchesa takes the notion of 70's prom dress to the extreme. This collection is full of gorgeous pastels and delicate lace. At the same time, it reminds me a lot of 1920's brides with the drop waist and the traditional french cut going on. Perhaps the girl in question is a runaway manic bride on her way to the sea shore. Whoever she is she clearly is fantastic and frankly I want to be her. Its safe to say this collection is something to lust over.   

5 comments:

Allison said...

I'm so glad you made this post because I haven't seen much that I liked from fashion week this year. These brands are all helping me restore my interest in fashion! If I can even own one of those Thom Browne translucent coats I'll be elated! Also I haven't been that into Proenza in the past but this season is killing it, especially that skull necklace.

Isabella Cantillano said...

I would literally kill for those Marchesa ensembles

red-handed said...

Runway maniac. Nice one.

red-handed said...

Runway maniac. Nice one.

AVY said...

Love the Thom Browne show and Marchesa's dresses are so pretty. Romantic.

/Avy

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